This big, comfortable, heritage hotel is hidden away within the walls of Jaipur’s old town – the ‘Pink City’ – and jam-packed with old-school Rajasthani character and design. A convenient base from which to explore the town, with enough space and facilities for a day of respite from the urban chaos outside.

The rather discreet entrance passageway tells nothing of the treasures and space to be found inside, where large lawns and courtyards butt up against the haveli’s imposing, pastel yellow walls. Latticed windows, balconies, endless examples of the architectural arch, ancient motifs and a plethora of tiled mosaic work all confirm that this is at the more lavish end of the haveli architectural style and, without a doubt, quintessential Rajasthan.

One welcome consequence of the grand and palatial is getting lost around the shady corridors and staircases of cool, worn stone that have borne witness to the two-century evolution from private mansion to present-day hotel. There’s an almost childish delight in the experience of staying here, and an atmosphere of dignified grandeur that India’s modern hotels can’t hope to replicate.

Our recommendation: spend your day exploring Jaipur’s busy, historical sites and then retreat back to Samode Haveli to escape the afternoon heat. Grab a book and make camp on a big, comfy diwan – or day bed – under your own little pavilion by the tree-bordered, mosaic pool. Lounge here in the shade, switch off and take advantage of excellent, attentive service and the well-stocked bar.