Just south of the throb of Goa’s party-belt, at the end of a cool, shady lane, sits this wonderfully commanding and airy mansion guesthouse. Seemingly somewhere between ‘heritage’ and simply ‘very old’, this nonchalant hunk of a house is actually neither, but still exudes the old colonial ambience sadly fading from Goan accommodation.

There’s a quality and aesthetic here that we found hard to reconcile with its mid-80s date of construction. Very high ceilings, thick walls, solid wooden furniture and no fussy detail; there’s thankfully nothing here that bears any resemblance to the madness of nearby Candolim or the glitzy escape of the 5-star Taj.

By day, almost the only noise is that of birdlife twinkling through the surrounding trees. As a base for exploring or a place to read, sleep and eat, it’s perfect.

Sinquerim beach and Fort Aguada are 10 to 15 minutes walk. A little further takes you to the hustle and bustle of Candolim and, after that, Calangute, both of which are best avoided, though they do provide all the water sports, beach shacks and nightlife you could wish for.

A few minutes from the fort however, and the serenity kicks in as you head towards Marbella. Many years ago this was a party house for those in the know, nowadays it’s a place for savvy couples to escape and relax.