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Madri Haveli

Udaipur, Rajasthan

The two-tier roof terrace at Madri – peering over the older havelis and houses in the neighbourhood – is possibly one of the most romantic places to dine in Udaipur, with sweeping views over the old city and the pastel-coloured hills beyond.

Laal Singh is Madri’s head chef; a local of Rajsamand, a small town bordering the city, he makes a wide range of Indian and Rajasthani food in the bright, clean kitchen area on the lower level of the terrace.

The complimentary breakfast runs from 7am to 10am and has a great range with both an Indian and continental section. The Indian food includes a choice of poha, poori-aloo and paranthas while the Western dishes on offer include eggs, pancakes, toast, juice and tea/coffee. From the continental dishes we really enjoyed the pancakes and scrambled eggs, though the lack of filter coffee seemed incongruous with a French-owned place.

For dinner, we listened to our waiter’s advice and ordered soup followed by two different syles of mutton. The hot and sour soup was very well flavoured but both mutton curries – one, the local, supposedly fiery laal maas and the other spinach-based – were quite oily and not authentically spiced, perhaps altered to suit a more Western tourist palate. Glitches abound in almost any hotel, and the management are happy to listen and eager to iron out the kinks as Madri Haveli enters just its second year of operation.



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The dinner selection consists of Indian staples, no Western options. The breakfast menu mixes continental and Indian, though while you can order any number of dishes from either the Indian or continental sections in the breakfast, you cannot mix and match from both.

Dining nearby

Udaipur isn’t particularly blessed with food options, with local street food and backpacker/traveler dishes the dominant fixture, at least outside the five-stars.

There’s a great chai stall at Chandpole Gate, a five-minute walk from the haveli that can also serve as a useful pitstop if you’re shopping or walking.

For decent coffee, multigrain sandwiches and homemade cakes, head over to German-run Café Edelweiss at Gangaur Ghat. Savage garden, run by the same owners and just a couple of hundred metres away near the Brahmpol Road bridge, is set in an old, partially restored haveli, and is a decent bet for somewhat authentic European food.

Otherwise, Lake Pichola  (also within walking distance) has a wide variety of restaurants sprawled around it; some of these have pretty decent food, others, great views.

Ambrai, the popular outdoor terrace  restaurant at Amet Haveli – a restored boutique hotel on the western banks of lake Pichola – has fabulous views and decent Indian food.

Type Boutique hotel
Rooms 14
Children Not ideal
Closed Never