Staying in a small town obviously throws up challenges for travellers here more than a few days, but Deogarh Mahal has some good amenities and does a great job of facilitating some outside activities as well.

The palace itself is an attraction and you can wander round, explore the nooks and crannies and listen to the accompanying audio guide. If the owner Mr Singh is around he will be happy to talk you through the history of Deogarh and his family’s place therein.

Ask for the telescope and you can stargaze from the roof of the hotel; the night sky in this dry, secluded region is truly magnificent.

After a wander around the palace take a walk around the town which can be with a guide if desired. There are small lanes, local shops with interesting wares and a surprisingly large amount of barber shops!

Deogarh seems to take its male grooming seriously: guests can even arrange for a wet shave and haircut at the hotel salon. Ladies – or men for that matter – can also arrange a pedicure or manicure. The hotel’s spa is not the slick, modern boudoir that one has come to expect, but the Keralan massage we tried was well executed.

On warmer days there’s the flower-shaped swimming pool – not a lap pool but still big enough for more than a splash  – and a newly-built jacuzzi. Families will be glad to also see a smaller pool for kids which can easily be supervised while lounging on the nearby sunbeds.

In the bar is a pool table and large TV, an especially good place to hang out if a big cricket match is on and the hotel is busy.

During high season, traditional folk performances are held in the large courtyard.

Horse-riding can be arranged and a horse-and-carriage ride is also possible.

The region, with its many small lakes, is good for bird-watching.

Book a jeep and driver for the day and you can trundle round the rugged hills dotted with little lakes and sights like Gokul Garh, Fort Anjana and Anjana Mahadeoji (Shiva) Temple. If you’re feeling more adventurous try and make it to at least one of Ranakpur (with its incredible Jain temple), Kumbhalgarh Fort or Chittorgarh Fort; all are worth a visit but are 2hrs+ by road so you need to make a day of it.