Staying at this splendid, ancient haveli is a must for a taste of sleepy, Rajasthani village life, where the outside world barely encroaches and tourists are still met with a curious smile. There are 20 rooms plus authentic home-cooked Rajasthani food and great hospitality.

An hour’s drive from Jodhpur takes you to the large village of Chandelao (population approx. 2000), where cattle wander the dusty streets and villagers amble to the well to collect water, their mobile phones are practically the only sign that this is the 21^st century.

Dominant in the village is the one place for visitors to stay: Chandelao Garh, with its imposing gatehouse and lovely bougainvillea-fringed central lawn surrounded by carved, red sandstone buildings. This may not be the biggest or grandest haveli in Rajasthan but it is certainly one of the most welcoming.

Established in the 18^th century and used as administrative headquarters for the Chandelao estate, the haveli remains in the Chandelao family to this day, run with love and affection by Praduman Singh Rathore who proves a warm and amiable host, always looking to chat and make his guests feel welcome.

There’s plenty to do here for a few days and it’s a good option as respite from the busy cities of Rajasthan and their tourist-choked markets, forts and palaces.

Take a guided walk around Chandelao and learn about traditional crafts and village life. People here are friendly and the local kids will love having their pictures taken.

Head off into the countryside in the hotel’s jeep. See the sun set over the Thar Desert and visit nearby villages, carrying on much as they have done for centuries

If you prefer to just stay in and relax then there’s a newly built swimming pool plus lawns and nooks and crannies for the kids to explore. Be sure to head up to the gatehouse terrace for a glass of wine and panoramic view of the sunset over the village.