What to do
Jodhpur
Eat & Drink
Jodhpur doesn’t have too many options for a good meal, and most places offer disappointingly bland fare. Despite this, there are a few places where one can head to for a relatively nice meal:
Indique – Pal Haveli, near the Clock Tower
Set in a picturesque haveli, Indique’s terrace restaurant has a spectacular view of the Mehrangarh Fort, especially at night when it is lit up. Do head there early as the nicest seats get snapped up quickly, or make a reservation well in advance! Consensus seems to be that Indique is the best place to go to if you’re looking to eat Laal Maas, a typical Rajasthani mutton curry. Talk to your waiter if you want to eat a more authentic preparation of the dish, and not the watered down version they prepare by default (as our waiter admitted to us).
Gypsy Restaurant – Sardarpura
Gypsy is another very popular restaurant in the city, serving no-frills, traditional vegetarian Rajasthani thalis. The dal, baati and churma here has a good reputation.
Janta Sweet Home – Nayi Sadak
Janta Sweet Home is another institution which one can visit for some quick Indian snacks on the go. Being on a busy main road, the restaurant is always bustling—it’s certainly not a place to lounge about! Try the famous onion kachori and mirchi vada.
Shri Mishrilal Hotel – facing the Clock Tower
Any list of eating joints in Jodhpur would be incomplete without mention of the legendary Shri Mishrilal Hotel. This small, hole-in-the-wall restaurant is famous for its delicious Makhaniya Lassi, best appreciated after a hot day spent outdoors. Do order a mirchi vada as an accompaniment.
Vicky Chauhan’s Omelette Shop
Another Jodhpur institution, Vicky Chauhan’s omelette shop is a roadside stall located near the gate to the Old City. The small menu offers a variety of omelettes, all served with toast, and is ideal if you’re out for an early breakfast before the restaurants open.
Shop
Shopping in the old city requires serious intent and courage! The narrow roads are always congested and not the best for a leisurely stroll; garbage is strewn everywhere and the sound of insistent car horns can be tiring. The winding streets can also get a bit confusing, so use the Clock Tower in Sardar Market to orient yourself.
Though Jodhpur is best known for its handicrafts and textiles, reliable shops selling handicrafts can be quite difficult to find—export huts and shops (just read the large signs) are possibly the easiest way to pick up some local goods, but be sure to bargain! Baba Art Emporium in Sardar Market is a good place to pick up various handloom, textile and handcrafted goods.
The spice market around Sardar Market is also a popular draw for most tourists, and Spice Paradise and Mohanlal Verhomal Spices are good for shopping. Spice Paradise also offers cooking classes.
See & Do
Mehrangarh Fort
Jodhpur’s prime attraction and crowning glory is the 15th and 18th century-built Mehrangarh Fort.
Sitting on a cliff top some 410 metres above the city, and covering an area of around 5 km, this remains one of the most striking and ornate forts in India. No matter where you go in Jodhpur’s old city, the fort of the sun (as the name Mehrangarh roughly translates), looms majestically in the background.
There are two ways to get here: a steep climb through the old city or an auto/cab to the fort entrance—where the usual tourist traps like camel rides, turban tying and even an astrologer can be found.
The fort is always bustling with people; weekends are the busiest and finding a quiet spot inside the complex can be near impossible. Above all, make sure that you get an early start to beat the crowds, not to mention the unrelenting sun.
A ticket to the fort and the museum costs 60 INR for Indians and 500 INR (including audio guide) for foreigners. Indians can get an audio guide for an additional 150 INR. If you want to use the elevator there’s an additional charge of 30 INR. The fort is open every day from 9.30am to 5.30pm.
If you take an audio guide for the fort, it will take you from two to three hours to see the whole place (allowing for breaks in the middle). The audio guide is available in eleven languages and is very comprehensive, especially for those who have little to no idea about the history of Marwar. If you’d prefer to hire a guide instead, do enquire at the ticket counter.
Adrenaline junkies should check out the zip lining tours conducted here by Flying Fox, which take you through the adjoining parks of Chokelao Bagh and Rao Jodha Desert Park.
Mehrangarh is a beautifully preserved building and an important attraction in Jodhpur – it even has an elevator service for the elderly and disabled – however, this is charged for (!) and parts of the fort are often closed to regular visitors, often arbitrarily so. Also, sadly, the iconic blue houses of Jodhpur are fast dwindling in number, and if you’re expecting to see a wash of blue from the fort’s ramparts you’ll be disappointed.
Some of the important buildings inside the fort are Phool Mahal, Sukh Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, Daulat Khana (house of treasures) and Moti Mahal – all housing innumerable artefacts from the Rajput family, as well as from the Mughal dynasty (like Akbar’s sword). Although the artefacts on display are fascinating, it is the intricately crafted balconies and stunning courtyards which remain with you long after your visit is over.
Jaswant Thada
A mere kilometre away from Mehrangarh Fort is Jaswant Thada, a cenotaph built in the memory of the Rathore king Maharaja Jaswant Singh. The beautiful monument is built with marble, which glitters during the day and turns a rosy colour as dusk falls. The memorial complex has a small lake and well maintained lawns, and is the perfect place to catch your breath or collect your thoughts after your trip to the fort.
Entry: 15 INR for Indians, 30 INR for foreigners.
Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park
For most visitors, Jodhpur is synonymous with Mehrangarh Fort (with good reason), and wonderful places like the Rao Jodha Park remain off the tourist circuit. This is a pity, as Rao Jodha is an oasis of peace in noisy and chaotic Jodhpur, and a worthy addition to anyone’s itinerary.
It’s rather misleadingly named, it’s not really a park, devoid as it is of green, manicured lawns and benches under the shade of trees, but something closer to an outdoor desert exhibit, showcasing the unique terrain of the region and the vegetation of the rocky Thar desert.
Spread over 72 hectares of volcanic rock, it has several marked trails running through it, giving visitors the opportunity for an immersive experience in the Thar, on their own or with a guide. At the visitor centre, set inside a 17th century gate, visitors are told the difficulty levels of each trail and the time taken for each. For those who want to take a relaxing stroll the Gully Trail is ideal. Those wanting more of a challenge can opt for the City Trail, where you can actually walk up the City Wall, but be warned: despite being the easiest trail it still passes through rocky terrain and prickly vegetation, so wearing closed shoes is a must!
If the idea of a nature park doesn’t appeal to you, then you must visit the park for some of the best and unhindered views of Mehrangarh Fort you’ll get from anywhere in the city. Because the park is not frequented by hordes of tourists, you almost feel as if you have exclusive viewing rights to the fort.
You can easily spend two hours or more wandering around this delightful place, so make sure to carry water with you.
Entry: 30 INR for adults and 10 INR for children.
Umaid Bhawan Palace
Recently voted the best hotel in the world on Tripadvisor, Umaid Bhawan Palace is another popular tourist attraction in Jodhpur.
Built with sandstone and marble, the palace is the private residence of Maharaja Gaj Singh II, the current ruler of Jodhpur. Those familiar with the buildings in Lutyens Delhi will find the architecture of Umaid Bhawan Palace similar. However, of the 300+ rooms in the hotel, only six are open to public, and these have been turned into a museum to exhibit royal memorabilia. The private residence and the hotel wing (run by Taj) remain closed off to visitors.
Visitors hoping to come here to witness the grandeur of the palace will be sorely disappointed, as all the ‘grand’ parts of the palace have been cordoned off. The tiny museum is also not really worth a visit unless you have more than a passing interest in the royal family’s photographs, silverware, murals and stuffed tigers.
Unless you’re staying at the Umaid Bhawan Palace Hotel, and thus have access to more of the property, a trip to the museum is really not recommended.
Entry: 20 INR for Indians and 50 INR for foreigners.
Mandore Gardens
Located 9 km north of Jodhpur, Mandore was the capital of Marwar until Rao Jodha shifted the capital to Jodhpur. The gardens today enclose the ruins of Mandore Fort, dating from as early as the 6th century, and cenotaphs of various Rathore kings. If you’re interested in Rajput history then a trip to the gardens would be worth your while. Unfortunately, being a popular picnic spot with locals, the gardens are not well-maintained and trash is littered everywhere. Monkeys are also attracted to this place because of the ample supply of food brought by picnickers.