When & How
Goa
Goa is a seasonal tourist state, with the season running roughly from October to April, bookended by the pre-monsoon heat and the post-monsoon rebuilding. However, monsoon tourism is becoming an increasingly important fixture in the calendar, and in reality Goa is open for business all year round. As long as you know what you’re in for during the monsoon – no swimming, no shacks or resorts on the beach, limited food and drink options, lots of rain – you can still have a fantastic time.
The busiest and most popular months are always November to March, with the Christmas and New Year period the peak of pleasurable chaos, where prices skyrocket, beaches and roads are jam-packed, and the sound systems are bursting.
Aside from Christmas and New Year, which are celebrated in the state religiously (in every sense of the word), the Catholic citizens observe Easter and Carnival, while for the Hindus the festival of Ganesh is the big event, and to a lesser extent Diwali and Holi. During these times expect fireworks, floats, and lots of noise.
How to get there
By air:
Goa is easily accessed by air, rail and road. If you’re flying in then Dabolim, roughly in the middle of the coastline, is where you’ll land. For such a popular destination it’s quite a shabby airport, but a new terminal is under construction and should be a marked improvement from 2014. From Dabolim it’s a maximum two-hour drive south, and a one-and-a-half hour drive north, to the respective borders, depending on traffic and destination. Pre-paid taxis run from the arrivals terminal, and while expensive compared to the rest of the country, they’re generally safe and reliable.
By rail:
There are two major railway stations in Goa: Margao in the south and Thivim in the north. Alight from either one depending on where you’re coming from and where you’re going to. Margao is bigger and has better options for onward travel, but if you’re staying in the north it makes sense to get off at Thivim, which is twenty minutes east of Mapusa.
By bus:
The NH17 runs all the way through Goa, close to the coast, and is the main entry for visitors from Maharashtra in the north and Kerala and Karnataka in the south. Buses come from various destinations and head to Panaji or Margao, although they can be booked and boarded at various other places.
Getting around
Infrastructure in Goa is still a little patchy, public transport somewhat lacking, and the taxi “mafia” have a disproportionately strong grip, meaning exorbitant prices and arrogance are part of the deal. However the roads are, by and large, smooth and pothole free, although the narrow streets in and around tourist towns can cause massive jams in peak season.
If you’re willing and able, bike or car hire is the way to go, and relatively hassle free. Biking, whether on scooter, a medium-sized bike such as the Pulsar, or a beast like the Enfield, is especially pleasurable, and a sure-fire way to beat the traffic and see the best of Goa. It is occasionally hair-raising though, with drunk and reckless driving in the beach belt a daily (or nightly) occurrence and accidents frequent. It’s important to have your license and your wits at hand, and although helmets aren’t mandatory on any road but the highway, they’re certainly the smart option. Bikes can be rented from 300-800 Rs. a day, depending on time of year, availability and model. Long-term rent is cheaper. It seems that every household in Goa has a bike to rent, so all you have to do is ask at the nearest permanent structure available and you’ll find something. Car rental isn’t as common as bike, but is still very easy. Prices range from 500-2000 Rs. a day depending on the type of car and time of year.
Outside the urban centres, autos are a rare sight in Goa, and not worth the cost. Bike taxis are available in these areas and are a better bet. For local travel the bus can be cheap and useful, if longwinded. Trains are best kept for travel out of the state, although if heading from north to south can be an option.