What to do
Cochin, Kerala
Cochin as a whole does not have a long list of attractions; visitors should bear in mind that really Fort Cochin – the top section of the Cochin island – is where the interest, history and charm is, including sites like the fishing nets, Dutch Palace, Dutch Cemetery, Jew Town, handicraft stores and famous churches. Cochin is also the gateway to ‘Green Kerala’.
Most people will head straight for the Chinese fishing nets on the seafront. Amongst the chaos of the harbour and fishing nets, sit down and try to spot a dolphin bobbing its head in and out of the water. See a range of different sea vessels – from small sea fishing canoes to big container ships – traversing the waters. Gazing out to sea was actually one thing we did every day and never got bored.
Cochin does have some great food, and Fort Cochin in particular has a handful of cute and lovely cafes serving scrumptious cakes and small bites to eat; Kashi Café and the Teapot Café are probably the most famous.
There are all kinds of cuisine available but eating like a local is, at least once, a must. Stop at one of the street restaurants near Princess Street (Fort Cochin) and try a veg thali or some fresh fish caught at the nearby fishing nets.
There are some ayurvedic spas around Fort Cochin that are worth a visit, and for retail therapy head over to Mattancherry and Jew Town. Here you can see, smell and buy different spices and check out some really nice handcrafted wooden artefacts and furniture.
Eat & Drink
Teapot Café – Peter Celli Street, Fort Cochin
A lovely, quaint cafe that serves up some delightful desserts with a large selection of teas and coffees. This is a good place to just come in and rest or read a book over a cup of tea. There are also a handful of main course options, of which the fish and rice looked particularly delicious. The chocolate cake is awesome.
Kashi Café – Burgar Street, Fort Cochin
Run by the owners of the excellent Old Harbour Hotel, this café doubles up as an art and sculpture gallery. Great breakfast options, with good coffee, tea with cinnamon cake and fresh fruits. Sandwiches and pasta dishes are also tasty but this place is really known for its freshly made cakes and the art, which, as subjective as it is, we thought was pretty cool. This is also a good place to meet other travellers.
Upstairs – Bastion Lane, Fort Cochin
A small Italian joint which overlooks the Santa Cruz basilica cathedral. You might have to look around a bit for the entrance to this 1st floor pizzeria but the hunt is worth it. Vegetarians can try the four-cheese pizza, and meat eaters won’t be disappointed. The pasta aglio oglio was, surprisingly, not great, but the iced lemonade drink was fantastically refreshing in the heat and humidity of the monsoon. The server is a fun guy and will entertain you with a few of his stories. There’s an indoor and outdoor seating area; we recommend the outdoors as it overlooks the lane and basilica.
Dal Roti – Church Road, Fort Cochin
This place serves up some delicious north Indian food. It is near the St. Francis church, located on Church Road. Come here to try their different dals or the special chicken roll in Kerala paratha which was yummy and very filling. The interiors are not much to talk about but the chilled-out and warm (is that a contradiction!?), homely ambience is a great plus point. There are not many tables so get here early if you want one!
Street restaurants – Tower Road, Fort Cochin
Near the harbour and right opposite the David Hall School there is a row of street restaurants. All have similar menus, centered around fish with a few vegetarian options such as dal and rice. Also check out the Indian Chinese noodles and rice. Best of all though, we recommend that you buy fresh from the harbour and seashore, then walk here and ask them to cook your fish or prawns the way you like them, either with curry or just grilled.
Malabar House – Parade Road, Fort Cochin
A ‘must-try’ dining experience at the Malabar Junction restaurant which is part of this excellent hotel. The bright red walls and starched, white tablecloths add a touch of class plus there’s a lovely relaxed, outdoor seating area in the shady courtyard, complete with a nice Ganesha statue and small pool. The food is Malabari and Continental cuisine and there are many highlights, from the delicious thali to the seafood platter, from Italian options such as the fantastic gnocchi paired with rose wine to the wonderful chocolate samosas. More pricey, it is in a hotel after all, but definitely worth it. There is also a very good wine bar here called Divine which too serves food.
Old Harbour Hotel – Tower Road, Fort Cochin
The fish thali here comes highly recommended, as does the ambience which lends itself to a romantic dinner in the lovely garden restaurant. This is not exactly fine dining but it comes close. Nice Indian food and Keralan cuisine (fish), but we really loved the soup, salad and pasta.
Dosas and Pancakes – Greenix Village Complex, Kalvathy Road, Fort Kochi
Dosas & Pancakes is a cool venue providing food, a cultural museum, art gallery, and kathakali and various other traditional performances. The service is good and the food is mostly traditional, this is one of the best places to get dosas for lunch. Located close to the beach but very neat.
Pepper House Café – Kalvathy Road, Fort Kochi
The Pepper House Café is tucked away in a historic part of old Kochi. It is an absolute delight, and even though it is situated just off of the main street overlooking the river and lake, the menu is simple and sweet. The fish is great, the salads are bursting with flavour and the staff are charming and professional.
See & Do
Chinese fishing nets
Right next to the beach are huge, old fishing net apparatus which are said to have been brought in from China, though they are now thought to have been brought from Macau by the Portuguese.
These fishing nets can be found across the Cochin backwaters but the ones right near the jetty in Fort Cochin are literally massive. See the system at work with its simple, repetitive motion and you can pay the fishermen to take a closer look and photograph them at their work.
Go to the seafront around sunset and watch the orange hue form a gorgeous backdrop to the rhythmic motion of the fishermen using the pulleys to lower and pull the nets in and out of the sea.
Cherai beach
This 15km long beach is on Vypin island, 10km north of Fort Cochin, and is a great, clean beach that is perfect for swimming. The location is unique as it has the sea on the Western side and the backwaters on the Eastern side. There are thick coconut groves and more Chinese fishing nets at the far end of the beach plus there’s a children’s playground and water scooters can be hired. Be aware that evenings see a lot of local crowds.
Lulu Mall
A refreshing break from the green and historical old town Lulu Mall, in Ernakulam, is a fun place to go to experience the new-age, modern-day India. Prada, Tommy Hilfiger, McDonalds and a nice cinema…
Mattancherry and Jew Town
This neighbourhood bordering Fort Cochin is a significant part of India and is famous for having ‘Jew Town’, where the ancient Jews began trading, at its heart. The area used to be home to the main spice trading market in Kerala and you can still find the pepper exchange and spices exchange buildings here.
The Dutch Palace aka Mattancherry Palace and the small Jewish synagogue are two famous landmarks here. The Palace is more of a neglected museum than anything else, but you can feel the years peeling away as you walk down the street towards the clock tower and synagogue.
Jew Town is now a place to shop for Keralan handicrafts and antiques, as well as playing host to some small, quaint cafes.
Saint Francis Church
A simple but lovely white church near the seafront and beach in Fort Cochin, made famous due to Portuguese explorer Vasco De Gama initially being buried here. Said to be the oldest church built by the Europeans in India (1503).
Santa Cruz Basilica
A quite imposing Catholic basilica, actually built in 1506 but restructured in 1902. The interiors are nice and coming here for mass on a Saturday or Sunday is a unique experience.
Bicycle around
Hire or borrow a bicycle from your hotel and get out and about, this is a great way to soak in Fort Cochin and its very pleasant and charming lanes.
The Dutch influence
The Dutch have influenced Kochi quite heavily and many hotels and buildings in the Fort Cochin area display a mix of Dutch architecture with Keralan furniture and ornate, Portuguese design.
Just behind the beach is the Dutch cemetery which dates back nearly 300 years and pays testament to the different nationalities that have affected the town. Though it may not look like much its importance in history cannot be taken lightly. There are nearly 105 tombs here and almost every single person buried has made an impact on the lives of Cochin’s people.
Shop
Lulu Mall
A refreshing break from the green and historical old town Lulu Mall, in Ernakulam, is a fun place to go to experience the new-age, modern-day India. Prada, Tommy Hilfiger, McDonalds and a nice cinema…
Mattancherry and Jew Town
This neighbourhood bordering Fort Cochin is a significant part of India and is famous for having ‘Jew Town’, where the ancient Jews began trading, at its heart. The area used to be home to the main spice trading market in Kerala and you can still find the pepper exchange and spices exchange buildings here.
Jew Town is now a place to shop for Keralan handicrafts and antiques, as well as playing host to some small, quaint cafes.