In May this year we got lucky. Our contributors Deepti and Matthew went to Ladakh – under their own steam – but before they left they mentioned they’d have some time to research hotels and could we set up an itinerary for them. “Of course!” was our reply. It’s not often that anyone heads so far north, and with the holiday season there being so short we had to take the chance while we could.
When they got back to Delhi, Deepti and Matt were gushing about most of the hotels they visited, but Nimmu House was one that seemed to have really struck a chord.
This shot may hint at why, thought it doesn’t tell the whole story:
The location:
Nimmu is actually a village, 30km west of Leh (the ‘capital’ of Ladakh), which has an airport from where you can fly to Delhi in just under an hour and a half. Bear in mind that the altitude here is a big factor and you will need to do nothing (really, nothing at all) for the first day or two, in order to gently adjust without getting sick.
Nimmu is a lovely village, quite fertile, green and prosperous, and well worth a visit. We suggest renting an Enfield in Leh and then driving here, the road is great and the scenery is out of this world.
The property:
Nimmu House has been wonderfully renovated by its French benefactor, Alex Lebuan, who worked alongside the family that have owned the property since its construction 100 years ago.
Within the grounds there are stables with yaks, dzos, cows and goats. The orchards provide a lovely setting for breakfast and lunch, or for just lazing around in a hammock with a good book.
The rooms:
Dotted around the grounds of Nimmu House are 5 very large canvas tents. Dispel any pre-conceptions you might have about staying in a tent. These are more like small cottages, equipped to a high standard with ensuite bathrooms, a heater, even books and hot water bottles for the chilly nights.
Inside the house itself are 4 more guest rooms. Again, these are all well equipped – sparse but very comfortable – and best of all, perfectly fitting with the rest of the building and the heritage on display.
There are no silly additions here, no wasteful gratuities, no TV, no attempts to be ultra-modern for the sake of it. The only thing to be wished for, perhaps, would be a strong Wi-Fi signal. Though that probably says more about the modern traveller than it does about Nimmu House itself.
The food:
The standard of the food at Nimmu House is simply superb, even more so when one takes into consideration the limitations of Ladakh. This is the kind of place where one can meet the chef to discuss what’s available. However, it may be best to just advise of any specific dietary requirements and then leave the kitchen to it. You will certainly not be disappointed. The chef – Mahesh – has trained with Gregory Bazire, who we know from Le Poisson Rouge in Goa, and has a fantastic repertoire ranging from north Indian to French.
Note that there are 2 options when you book: include breakfast and either lunch or dinner, or include all meals. We’d suggest the latter as it doesn’t make a huge difference to the nightly rate.
The cost:
Single occupancy rooms start from 9,000 INR per night including breakfast and lunch or dinner. Double occupancy, including all meals, is 10,500. Frankly, for this standard of accommodation, location, environment, dining and service, it’s a steal!
For more info, and the lowest rates available, check out our full visitation notes for Nimmu House.