When it comes to monuments, Delhi has more than its fair share – it is home to three UNESCO World Heritage sites after all.
Once you’re done appreciating the splendour of Lal Qila, Humayun’s Tomb and Qutub Minar, make a trip to some of these wonderful monuments in the city, which are often overlooked by most tourists.
1) Monuments at Mehrauli
The Mehrauli Archaeological Park, located right next to the Qutub Minar, is often referred to by city enthusiasts as Delhi’s best kept secret (and here’s a Delhi hotel that is too!). In fact, so vocal are its fervent admirers that you’d think it would have stopped being a secret by now. Nevertheless, perhaps because of its proximity to the Qutub Minar – after all, it’s not easy being in its towering shadow (pun intended) – Mehrauli is still a hidden gem.
The park is one of the most historically rich sites in Delhi, and is believed to have witnessed continuous inhabitation since the foundation for an 11th century Tomar city was laid. Structures belonging to the Lodi dynasty, the Mughal empire and the British Raj can all be found here.
The walking trail inside is well-demarcated and reassuring signs are placed every few metres, pointing visitors to the various monuments in the complex.
One of the first structures to greet visitors to the park is the tomb of Ghiyasuddin Balban, the 13th century Mamluk ruler. Historians consider this tomb to have had the first instance of an arch and a dome – a common feature in later Indo-Islamic architecture.
It is a delightfully odd experience to move from the ruins of a 13th century tomb to a 19th century colonial structure in just a few steps. Thomas Metcalfe’s canopy, called Metcalfe’s Folly, and Metcalfe’s Boat House are both remarkably well-preserved colonial structures, in stark contrast to the ruins strewn across the park.
The 16th century Jamali Kamali tomb – arguably the best-known of the group of monuments here – is also one of the best-maintained, and the most majestic. The tomb holds the grave of the Sufi poet Sheikh Jamali Kamboh, who lived during Sikandar Lodi’s and Humayun’s reign. Some believe the tomb to be haunted by djinns who like tormenting unsuspecting visitors every now and then.
Rajon ki Baoli
The step-well, Rajon ki Baoli, also dating from the 16th century, is a stunning monument which deserves more recognition. Though it has survived the ravages of time, the upkeep of the step-well is sadly lacking, and standing water with floating garbage mars an otherwise beautiful structure.
For the intrepid explorer, there are many more monuments of historical importance near to the park. These include the tomb of Adham Khan, across from the Mehrauli Bus Terminal, Hauz-i-Shamsi – a Mamluk period reservoir – and Zafar Mahal, Bahadur Shah Zafar’s summer palace.
2) Purana Qila
One of the better-known monuments on this list, Purana Qila was built by Sher Shah Suri, after defeating Mughal emperor Humayun and wresting control of city. The sprawling ruins of the fort are a part of the sixth city of Delhi, and some believe this to have been the site where Indraprastha – the city of the Pandavas from the Mahabharat – was located.
Purana Qila masjid
The only surviving buildings in the complex, apart from the walls and the gates, are the Qila-i-Kuhna Masjid, Sher Mandal and a stepped well.
The stunning Qila-i-Kuhna was probably the royal mosque, with the tank in front for performing ablutions before prayers.
Sher Mandal is a beautiful octagonal tower, later used as an observatory and library by Humayun, once he re-took control of Delhi. It is believed that Humayun, on his way to evening prayers, fell to his death from the stairs of the library.
Walking inside the fort is a surreal experience, as one moment you could be walking along the fort’s walls, and the next gazing at a busy main road from the fort’s ramparts.
There is a wonderful sound and light show at the fort every evening, in Hindi and English, detailing the rich history of Delhi. Though less grand than the Red Fort sound and light show, it is no less fascinating.
Note that you must buy a ticket to enter Purana Qila.
3) Firoz Shah Kotla
Firoz Shah Kotla is more often associated with the cricket stadium rather than the fifth city of Delhi, after which the stadium was named. Located off Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, next to the stadium, the ruins of Firoz Shah Kotla lie almost forgotten.
The fortress and the city were built in the 14th century by Firoz Shah Tughlaq, on the banks of the Yamuna. Since the river eventually shifted course, vast, green lawns are now maintained in the same place where the river once flowed.
Firoz Shah Kotla ruins
Of the few structures still standing in the complex, the most recognisable is the Jami Masjid. The mosque, in fact, is believed to be the haunt of djinns who need to be appeased; even today some believers offer milk and food in order to keep them happy.
The palace building facing the mosque is also in relatively good condition, with an Ashokan pillar erected on top of it. The Ashokan pillar is believed to have been moved from Ambala (in Punjab) to Firozabad. Remains of a step-well (baoli) and jail cells can also be seen here.
Sadly, the grounds of the monument are quite overgrown – even though it’s maintained by the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India)– giving the place a desolate air. Despite this, the fifth city of Delhi retains a certain charm and is worth a visit (you will need to buy a ticket for entry).
4) Agrasen ki Baoli
Just off Hailey Road, near Connaught Place, is this gorgeous, hidden step-well, believed to have been built in the 14th century. It is not clear who built it, but it is thought to have been named after Agrasen, a member of the Agarwal community, even though the architecture belongs to the Lodi or the Tughlaq period.
Agrasen ki Baoli, with Connaught Place in the background
The first sight of the baoli is a dramatic one for sure—three arched levels of a stone well rising from the ground, against the backdrop of the modern high-rise buildings of Connaught Place. The serenity of the well, unbroken by a few students playing truant, is in stark contrast to the bustle of central Delhi, which looms suggestively in the background.
Visitors can descend down the baoli’s steps, and even walk along its walls, though caution is advised for both. Although not the grandest structure in Delhi, it is certainly striking enough to merit a visit, offering visitors a rare moment of quiet in an otherwise busy part of the city.
5) Safdarjung Tomb
Located on the junction of Lodhi Road (about 500 metres from Lodhi Gardens) and Aurobindo Marg, this late 18th century tomb is easy to whizz past on your way to the posh Lutyen’s Delhi, or to Dilli Haat, obscured as it is by trees and a police check-post. That’s also what makes it a delight to visit, since it is largely uncrowded, with only the odd couple furtively (or brazenly) romancing on its staircases or in the gardens.
Safdarjung Tomb
The brown sandstone tomb was erected in 1754 for Safdarjung, viceroy to the Mughal emperor Ahmed Shah Bahadur. The mausoleum sits in the middle of four beautifully manicured lawns, each of which is sectioned by a tank. Those who are familiar with Humayun’s Tomb will be quick to notice the similarity in the architectural styles, and it is said to be one of the last tombs to have been built in this manner.
The complex also houses a mosque and pavilions, where the Archaeological Survey of India now has an office and a library. Entry is by ticket only.
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